Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Log in Register.
Castrol EPX 75w80 Votes: 14 Millers 75w90 Votes: 10 Comma 75w90 Votes: 7 Other please state in thread Votes: 14 Total voters I have read replys on threads from Cs users saying to use nothing other than 75w80 Castrol EPX oil etc as the gearboxes are sensitive and other people replying to say 75w90 Millers and Comma oil etc is fine.
If the moderators could set up a poll with each type of oil 75w80,75w90 etc etc that'd be great and easier for us all. Last edited: Jun 3, Sam NP. Lotus Elise.
Sam BTM said:. ITB'd MK1. D1CKY said:.
Gear 300 75W-90
High sulfur content erroded the synchros in certain gearboxes. Tony Hunter. This is going to get confusing again,I can see into the future.
Dismiss Notice. Cookies Snack. BAMmilesManual gear changes a little agriculturalbox is ok, selects etcbut just not too silky in operation Gear box oil change likely to improve anything??? Oil type suggestions??? Last edited: Feb 14, AGB-S3Feb 14, I'd also be interested to know whether a a transmission fluid change would make any difference to gear changes.
Mine can be a little crunchy at times, I'm onManual boxcar is roundmilesclutch miles and engine is number 3 at 80, mileschanged the haldex oil and filterthat made an improvement. VAG state its filled for life so no service intervals on gearbox or rear diff not haldex as that does need servicing regularly Hi What makes would you recommend for both.
DemonFeb 14, GazwouldFeb 14, Gearbox as lable suggests. HahaI knew that old chestnut would come up! I quote Tim of Opie Oils. In the additive package there will be additives to control the acidity of the oil, if the sulphur compounds do produce an acidic byproduct based on them breaking down, they might not break downthe buffers should control the acidity of the oil.
If the additive package doesn't contain enough buffer, the acidity of the oil might be a problem. In reality, the Fuchs and Castrol do not damage yellow metals, we have sold plenty of both of them to know there isn't an issue and companies like Fuchs and Castrol would not be recommending them for use with synchros if there was a problem.
The problem with additives and yellow metals comes from the s and was soon rectified by reputable oil companies. The problem was that original GL5 oils contained levels of sulphur that were too high for yellow metals, leading to corrosion, but when the problems were discovered, the additive package used by reputable companies was altered so that the level of sulphur was lowered to a safe level basically a higher dose of a GL4 additive pack was used.Тест трансмиссионных масел 2
Use GL4 as per spec suggests, I don't care what some salesman at opie oils says im afraid. GL5 isn't a higher spec oil it's a different spec all together. Different EP levels and different additive package. For this vehicle vw quote GL4. RetromanFeb 14, No special VAG version of the oil the?
Mobilube 1 SHC 75W???
Am I better using 75w-140 over 75w-90
We are still missing the all important VW gearbox oil speceverything these days is manufacturer spec.By chris5 January, in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust.
Original vw manual gearbox oil is SAE 75W Your gearbox will thank you when you fill in 2,7 liters of that oil. I just use Comma or any other decent brand. I'm sure mikeymk had some ideas about the oil being half the reason 6n onwards, boxes were prone to failing. I've been destroying gearboxes for ages, had a nightmare. Three gearboxes have lasted me less than a day, consistent hard use going up and down the gears was one of the big problems.
When I put this gearbox together recently I've now used 75w synthetic. Just 75w. It's alarmingly thin, doesn't smell much. Hammered the hell out of the gearbox and it's still the best it's ever been.
I wouldn't advise buying a bottle with the number 90 on the label. I managed to fill this gearbox up with Fuchs Titan 75w fully synth for thirty quid.
So far, it's looking like the extra was well worth spending. I think the problem is, minerals and semis tend to clog up faster and you never know what percentage of a semi is synthetic and what percentage is mineral Therefore, in a normal box or engine, regular oil changes with a semi synthetic is fine. However, in a made of chocolate I suppose I would agree with you - fully synthetic probably is wiser.
Semi synthetic oil is not a mixture of mineral and synthetic. It is mineral. Only fully synthetic is synthetic. And fully synthetic hardly smells at all. I killed at least four gearboxes where each had brand new virgin oil.
Two hadn't been out the bottle a day. Yep, that's the one. This stuff has transformed my confidence in the 6n's gearbox, it generally feels better to use, too. My current one has seen better days, I've kept it going with one new bearing, and yet it's behaving like, and feels like, the best unit I've ever had on there. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.Remember Me?
Forum The Garage Oilheads 75W90 vs. Results 1 to 14 of Thread: 75W90 vs. Thread Tools Show Printable Version.
Am I better using 75w-140 over 75w-90
I saw a post by another member who does his own maintenance and he used 75W What is the difference and what does anybody have any recomendations? I thought that the higher the viscosity number the thinner the oil. I also thought thinner is better in cold weather, am I correct or just suddenly confused? A 75W will be thinner at higher oil temperatures than a 75W Both are the same thickness at lower oil temperatures. The 75W is said to have a wider viscosity range - when more accurately it would be a wider temperature range.
While it might seem that a wider viscosity range oil is better overall - that may not be the case. There is speculation that some of the rear drive failures seen on the oilhead bikes and K bikes is due to using the 75W oil in the rear drives. It isn't clear or the speculation doesn't go this far - if the speculated reason for the failure is the viscosity difference, OR - that to get a 75W - you have to be using synthetic oil.
The 75W oil that BMW sells and recommends for the rear drives is non-synthetic. BTW - excellent posting on changing the rear-drive oil on your Hexhead!
If we go ahead with a separate hexhead forum, that ones going to be a sticky for sure! Originally Posted by dzimbric. Originally Posted by deilenberger. Originally Posted by AntonLargiader. It is synthetic. If there's a dino version of the 75W90, it's news to me. You want leaking seals? Use synthetic oil. Originally Posted by Wallowa. I assume this applies to all FDs A "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution.
Originally Posted by PGlaves. Just another reason to get a y-pipe!Gear oil is used to keep gears running smoothly. It protects the gears from wear down, corrosion, oxidation and rust. Gear oil is available in various weights. Applications differ by weight.
An oil's use can be determined by the SAE number or grade it is assigned. Numbers of 60 and higher indicate gear oil while lower numbers indicate engine oil.
This means 75W and 80W are both gear oil. The 75W gear oil is used under extreme pressure conditions and is recommended for limited-slip differentials and for use in colder climates. Used in heavy duty manual transmissions, final drives and axles, high temperatures will not effect the heavy film left by this oil. The 80W gear oil can be used in extreme pressure conditions and as a lubricant for non-synchronized manual transmissions in heavy duty trucks or buses.
This gear oil is recommended for conventional and limited slip differentials. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. Photo Credits gear device image by Pali A from Fotolia.User Name Remember Me? Gear oil no-no! Here's an e-mail I received today. I don't recognize the name, so maybe he's a "lurker". The higher levels of sulphur and phosphorus extreme pressure additives can cause corrosive wear at high temps they attack the bronze syncros.
BTW, Toyota allows the use of GL-5 rated lubes in their manual transmissions, transfer cases, and differentials I run a GL-5 product in my '95 Tacoma.
By the way, my comment on the other thread was something to the effect of: "VW doesn't reccomend a change interval for manual transaxle gear lube, but nothing lasts forever.
Change it every 50, miles I still stand by that statement in principle, but I'll back away from the Mobil idea. According to the Bentley manual, the '99s do have synthetic gear lube in the box. That's why there's no change interval in the owner's manual. I think I'll go with the "genuine" VW synthetic lube when I change it. I was glad to hear about the Tacoma thing. I own a '98 Tacoma 4x4, and I'll probably still use the Mobil synth lube in those boxes.
There are several of them! Re: Gear oil no-no! I got some VW synthetic gear oil last weekend in case I ever need to top off the manual transmission. Here we go again!
To say we cannot use GL-5 is like saying we cannot use CH-4 in our cars. It's the same product we buy with the latest rating. I asked the parts guy what the application was. He told me everything, VW, Mazda, Dodge pick-up trucks etc. The phosphorus, zinc, sulfur, molybdenum, etc, used in the extreme pressure additives are bonded the the hydrocarbons and will never react with the metals.
Part of the GL-5 rating is long term stability and nonreactivity. If any of these elements ever react with any metal part of the tranny, then you got the tranny hot enough to start a fire under the hood of your car. Look in the reference library under Automotive Gear Lubricants. There are hunreds of pages of real test data, procedures, and information. Oh, goody. More boring oil controversy. I checked out that site, BKmetz. Lot's 'o handy information! And not just about gear oil, either!
My take on the API service catagories for gear oil: They don't work the same way as the motor oil catagories.Forums New posts Search forums.
What's new New posts New resources New profile posts Latest activity. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. Members Registered members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. Welcome to The Truck Stop! Your truck knowledge is missing! Registration is FREEall we need is your birthday and email. Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!